Rock Climbing Areas

Demir Kapija

The first climb was made in 1978. On the 5-th of October during the visit of Josip Broz Tito (the President of Yugoslavia) in Macedonia, three climbers made the first ascent here and named the route in his honour - "Titova". The climbers were Jovan Poposki, Vasil Frangovski and Milan Santo.

After this climb in the following years more macedonian climbers will start visiting this area more often and climb more and more new lines, turning it into a regular playground for the next generations. Today there are over 20 multipitch routes starting on different parts of the rock and over 40 short (sport) routes in few sectors...

Getting there: We recommend going by car. Take the M1 (E75) highway from Skopje towards Gevgelija and after driving some 120km you'll reach the small settlement of Demir Kapija. Don't take the exit for the town but continue further down the road and park the car after the first tunnel (between the 2 tunnels there are few parking spots on both sides of the road).

The approach: The river Vardar separates the settlement of Demir Kapija from the big limestone rockface that rises up right from the left bank of the river - making it hard to approach for climbing. The easiest and fastest way to approach the routes is to start from between the tunnels. For the trad routes on the main face when looking towards the second tunnel go down to the right - follow the stream for about 100 meters. When you'll see the river (river Vardar) go to the right towards the rock and look for the fix steel cord that will take you towards the routes - traversing over the river...

We recommend: All the routes :) If you want to start on easier ground we recommend "Polzav" and "Tulumba" (both are V, 250m). Here the main difficulties are only in the first and the last pitch so in between you can enjoy the view. A bit harder but much sustained is "Vlatceva" (V+, 250m). It is a very nice route with fun moves! Starting from the second pitch the route is bolted but carry nuts and cams for additional protection. After that we suggest "Branceva" (VI+, 200m) where you will enjoy nice and harder trad climbing (cams and nuts are much needed!) and the two masterpieces "Gavran" (VII-, 150m, bolted) and "Slavkova" (VI+, 150m). These two routes follow obvious terrain: the first one will take you through a diedre and the second one through some nice overhangs...

And there are many more routes: nice moves on "Hajlender" (VI+, 100m, bolted) and "Vertikal" (VI, 100m, bolted), enjoyable climbing and beautiful views towards the valley from "B2" (IV, 200m) and "Blazeva" (V, 250m)... Here are some photos from some of these routes:

Food and accommodation: Camping, hut, hotel...There are many places where you can set up a camp (for example on the meadow to the left in front of the first tunnel or if possible near the place where the "stream" enters river Vardar - near the start of the travesre). Also you can contact the Macedonian sport-climbing federation and make arrangements about using the hut "Kalabaster" situated in Demir Kapija. There are many places where you can eat or buy your own food and drinks in Demir Kapija... If looking for more luxorious accomodation - we suggest the Popova Kula winery and hotel...

While there: The area where the main rock face is, is the narrowest point of the Demir Kapija Gorge. It has always been a very strategic point for protection from the armies coming from the southern valleys – the remains of fortresses and walls on the surrounding hills witness this. The names of the settlements (according to archeological findings from few centuries BC) and cities were changing during the times. Today’s name of the town comes from the name of the village that historians have found in XVI century Turkish documents: Demir Kapija meaning “Iron Gate” - it remains today and reminds us of the rich history of this place. There are few places that can be found on the surrounding hills – remains from fortresses, churches, walls, towers…

For any other additional info pleae feel free to contact us!